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BEST
OF THE CARIBBEAN COAST
Visiting Belize is confusing, isn't it? There are so many choices, and they
all sound good in the brochures.
At BELIZE FIRST, we're trying to help by providing our lists of the best of
Belize and the Caribbean Coast. The best jungle lodges, restaurants, and
beach resorts. The best itineraries, the best sources of more information,
even our choices for the best honeymoon destinations.
We've gone out on a limb to give you our opinion. And it is just that --
OPINION.
Our little "Book of Lists" contains informed judgments based on many
visits by BELIZE FIRST staff, on sharing notes with leading guidebook
authors covering the region, and from comments from hundreds of BELIZE
FIRST readers and other Belize travelers.
If you disagree with our conclusions and our rankings, tell us. Give us
YOUR opinion, and the reasons for it.
One thing, however, you don't have to worry about. The opinions expressed
here are NOT based on the influence of advertising dollars or politics or
Belize boosterism. BELIZE FIRST is independent, ad-free, and obligated to
no one. We tell you what we really think ... even if it hurts to say so. While
we love Belize, we're not in the business of promoting it. We're in the
business of candidly reporting on it.
Finally, a word of caution: Things change. What was wonderful yesterday
may, with the loss of a key person or other untoward event, take a turn for
the worse today. Especially in Belize.
Belize isn't for everyone. But what it does offer, it offers in glorious
plenty.
5 Reasons to Visit Belize
# 1 Diving/snorkeling
Regardless of your level of ability or physical condition, there's a place
and mask for you in Belize. Diving around the atolls is world-class,
excellent on the reef off Stann Creek and Toledo districts, and not bad
even around the more-visited parts of the barrier reef such as near
Ambergris Caye. Snorkeling is also excellent, though except from the
cayes directly on the reef such as Tobacco, Goff's, and English, it requires
a short boat ride to the reef. A caution, though: The Caribbean here can see
rough seas, making snorkeling iffy on windy or stormy days. Long dive boat
rides can be a very queasy experience.
# 2 Mayan ruins
Belize was the heart of the Maya world, and today dozens of ruins can be
visited without the hordes of tourists common in parts of Mexico.
# 3 Ecotravel: Birds, wildlife, and nature
Most of Belize remains lightly populated by humans and untouched by
developers, so it is a paradise for wild critters and birds. More than 500
species of birds have been spotted in Belize. Animals rare or extinct
elsewhere still thrive in Belize's bush. Nature is still natural here. A
surprising number of Belizeans have a real commitment to protecting the
environment.
# 4 Adventure
Belize is a great place for adventure, soft or otherwise. Come for hiking,
canoeing, kayaking, windsurfing, and caving. Indeed, Belize offers some of
the best spelunking anywhere, with huge cave systems, some yet
unexplored, in the Maya Mountains and elsewhere.
# 5 Culture
No, not the kind you get from museums; Belize offers the visitors a
laboratory of human culture, all in a small and accessible space. Belize is
a truly multi-racial, multi-cultural, multi-lingual society. Far from
perfect, with dangers as well as pleasures, a trip to Belize can be an
education. Come with your eyes, and mind, open.
5 Reasons NOT to Visit Belize
If you love Cancun, you probably won't like Belize.
# 1 Golf
Although the British played golf here in British Honduras days, there are
now no links in the country (except for a private driving range on Caye
Chapel).
# 2 Shopping
Shopping in Belize may remind you of Hobbes' description of working class
life in olde England -- nasty, brutal, and short. While there are several
modern supermarkets and stores in Belize City, and a few shops of visitor
interest in San Pedro and Cayo, prices for almost everything but rum are
high and selection is limited. Neither does Belize have the rich craft
tradition of nearby Guatemala.
# 3 Great beaches
Those coming to Belize expecting the wide white sandy beaches of
Anguilla, the BVI, or parts of Mexico's Yucatçn are likely to be
disappointed. The barrier reef all along the coast of Belize provides for
rich underwater life but also blocks the sand deposits of less-protected
shores. Seagrass is common off most beaches. Ambergris Caye has some
small, human-helped beaches, the small ribbons of sand at Hopkins/Sittee
Point and Placencia/Seine Bight/Maya Beach can be pleasant, and a few of
the remote cayes have postcard-style strips of sandy beach, but no beach
in Belize would make the world's top 100 list.
# 4 Nightlife
If you like to party hard, consider going elsewhere. Even Belize City shuts
down early, and only the animals walk at night. San Pedro has the most
action, what with the chicken drop at the Spindrift Hotel, and about 20
bars, some of which blast 'til the wee hours. At the jungle lodges and
remote resorts, guests are usually in bed by nine or ten, tired from the
day's activities.
# 5 Gourmet dining
You CAN get a satisfying meal in Belize, but Guide Michelin will not need
to come to Belize anytime soon.
10 Most Commonly Asked Questions about Belize
Here are the questions we get most often from first-time travelers to
Belize (other than questions on specific hotels), along with abbreviated
versions of our answers.
# 1 "Is it safe?"
Yes, with routine precautions, Belize is as safe as most vacation
destinations. Drugs, unemployment, the large percentage of Belizeans in
the high-crime teenage and young-adult years, and the influence of U.S.
television contribute to crime in Belize City and elsewhere, but Belize
police do their best to stop criminals and solve crimes, which is more
than you can say for many other countries in the region.
# 2 "What's the cheapest way to get to Belize?"
In most cases, the cheapest way to get to Belize from North America or
Europe is is to fly into Cancun (which gets about 20 times as many
visitors as all of Belize and thus a lot of charter and low-fare air service)
and then take a bus to Chetumal at Belize's northern border.
# 3 "We want to relax at the beach but also see some of mainland Belize -
- where should we go?"
The classic "surf and turf" in Belize is a few days on Ambergris Caye (or
Caye Caulker for budget travelers) and then a few days in Cayo. That's
still a good option, especially for those with limited time, but there's
plenty to see in most areas of Belize. The quintessential Belize
experience may be a week on a remote caye. For travelers who like to get
a bit off the beaten track, Corozal and Orange Walk districts in the north
are well worth exploring, and Placencia and the Hopkins areas south are
pleasant without being touristy. Toledo is Belize's frontier and a jumping
off point for Caribbean Guatemala and Honduras.
# 4 "Should we rent a car?"
Yes, if you can afford to do so, having your own wheels gives you the
chance to see areas of Belize you can't easily reach by bus.
# 5 "Where's a good place to snorkel directly from the beach?"
Belize has world-class snorkeling, but in most cases it requires a boat
ride to the barrier reef. Among the exceptions are cayes such as English
Caye and Tobacco Caye which are directly on the reef, but these are not
developed tourist destinations.
# 6 "Where's the best diving in Belize?"
The best diving is around the atolls far off the coast of Belize --
Turneffe, Lighthouse, and Glovers. The second-best diving is along the
barrier reef from around Dangriga south. Recreational divers will enjoy
the diving off Ambergris Caye.
# 7 "We want to see a Mayan ruin -- which one should we see?"
If you don't have much time, see Xunantunich or Altun Ha. If you have
more time, see Caracol or Lamanai. If you have at least a full day and
preferably longer, do Tikal in Guatemala.
# 8 "Is summer a bad time to visit -- how hot and rainy is it?"
It depends on where and when you're going. In general, the farther south
you go, the more rain you'll get, and the more months the wet season lasts.
It's hotter inland than on the coast, where there's usually a trade wind or
breeze blowing (though the winds occasionally die down.) The "green
season" in Belize isn't like the monsoon season in Asia. It's more like
southern Florida where you may get rain or intense storms for a few
hours, and then periods of beautiful sunshine. The main effect is on dirt
roads especially in the south, which at times become impassable. We
actually prefer the off-season in Belize. There are fewer tourists, and
prices are lower. If we had to pick a single time to come to Belize, it
probably would be right after Easter, when prices drop, water viz is
excellent, the tradewinds still are blowing, and it's still too early for
hurricanes or severe tropical storms. Belize averages about one hurricane
every ten years, usually hitting in late summer.
# 9 "Is Belize a good place for kids?"
Yes, if your kids can make their own entertainment and enjoy the water
and the outdoors.
# 10 "Do we need shots to come to Belize?"
None is required, and in fact most tourists heading to the cayes or to a
posh jungle lodge don't get any. However, malaria is present in Belize,
and if you're spending any time outside the main tourist areas, it's better
to be safe than sorry, with chloroquine. Any traveler should be up-to-
date on polio and tetanus, and sticks for Hep A and B can be a good idea for
some. For the latest word, contact the Centers for Disease Control in
Atlanta.
10 Best Jungle Lodges
Here are our picks for the best jungle lodges in Belize. There are so many
good ones, and the difference among several of them is so small, that
we're probably fools to try to rank them. You'll be happy at any of these
spots. And, as well, at the ones that didn't quite make our top 10 this year.
# 1 Chan Chich, Gallon Jug, Orange Walk District
Barry Bowen's little lodge is smack dab in the middle of nowhere, which is
exactly how guests like it. Jungle all around, birds above, Maya ruins
underneath, a class operation in every direction.
# 2 Chaa Creek, near San Ignacio, Cayo
Beautiful grounds, nearly bug-free, superbly trained staff, savvy owners,
delightful for guests.
# 3 Lamanai Outpost, near Lamanai ruins, Orange Walk District
The late Colin Howells built this one right and ran it like a pro. Although
it's now under new management, we expect it to continue to be one of
Belize's top ecospots.
# 4 Duplooy's, near San Ignacio, Cayo
This lovely small cottage colony inn should be renamed Belize's
Arboretum, thanks to Ken Duplooy's wonderful plantings of trees, shrubs
and flowers.
# 5 Blancaneaux, Mountain Pine Ridge, Cayo
Francis Ford Coppola's inn has a lot going for it -- good food, lovely
setting, luxurious villas.
# 6 Hidden Valley Inn, Mountain Pine Ridge, Cayo
The Headley paradise on 18,000 acres offers waterfalls, streams, peace
and quiet, and comfortable digs.
# 7 Jaguar Paw, near Belmopan
New and luxurious, with 16 air conditioned and rooms, large caves and
river next door.
# 8 Mountain Equestrian Trails (M.E.T), Mountain Pine Ridge, Cayo
Marguerite and Jim Bevis know Belize well, treat the land with great
respect, and run a good place.
# 9 Ek'Tun, near San Ignacio, Cayo
Very small but very nice.
# 10 Maya Mountain, near San Ignacio, Cayo
Good value, run with concern and care.
Other wonderful jungle lodges which could have made our Top 10 list, and
may next time: Banana Bank Ranch, Warrie Head, Pook's Hill, Five Sisters,
Nabitunich, Windy Hill, Black Rock (all in Cayo District), Chau Hiix (Orange
Walk District), Pretty See Ranch (near Altun Ha), Fallen Stones Butterfly
Ranch (Toledo District), and Santa Cruz (Corozal District).
10 Best Seaside Resorts
Mainland beaches aren't Belize's strong point, but you'll have a great
seaside vacation at any of these small hotels.
# 1 Kitty's Place, Placencia
Informal, barefoot spot; not fancy, but just about perfect.
# 2 Rum Point Inn, Placencia
The most luxurious -- and perhaps most eccentric -- lodging in Placencia;
the best guest library in Belize; unusual free-form cabins; the owners are
highly knowledgeable but with a reputation for being reserved.
# 3 Green Parrot, Maya Beach (Placencia)
Hard-working on-site owners make the difference; more a cabin colony
than a full-service resort.
# 4 Turtle Inn, Placencia
Relax, kick-back, and enjoy a little bit of the South Pacific.
# 5 Jaguar Reef Lodge, Sittee Point/Hopkins
The first real resort in beautiful setting at what eventually will be
another Placencia.
# 6 Nautical Inn, Seine Bight (Placencia)
Rooms, in octagonal prefab units, are not at all Belizean, but the setting
and service make up for it.
# 7 Serenity Resort, Placencia
Florida-style cottages and a new 10-room hotel building and a conference
center; now, there's even a bar.
# 8 Casablanca by the Sea, Consejo, Corozal District
This little-known spot at the end of the Consejo road north of Corozal
Town sits on the beautiful Bay of Chetumal, with the lights of the Mexican
town ablaze across the water at night.
# 9 Tony's, Corozal Town
An old favorite, with a great beach bar and some of the coldest air
conditioning in Belize.
# 10 Hotel Seine Bight, Seine Bight
One of the most architecturally interesting contemporary buildings in
Belize, with a good restaurant, and a casual atmosphere.
10 Best Ambergris Caye Hotels
Ambergris Caye is the most-popular destination in Belize, with close to
one-half of international visitors heading here. While it's developing
rapidly, and prices generally, and regrettably, aren't competitive with
those at many resorts in the Yucatçn (but are well under resort prices on
most Caribbean islands), Ambergris Caye remains a fine place to vacation.
There are more cars now, but the streets are still sand, and development
is mainly low-rise.
# 1 Villas at Banyan Bay
If you're in the mood for a condotel rather than a full-service resort, this
Belizean-developed project is one of the newest and most luxe in all of
Belize.
# 2 Caribbean Villas
Not the most luxurious hotel, no beach to speak of, no pool, but friendly
management by Wil and Susan Lala makes all the difference in this
comfortable suites/apartment-style resort south of San Pedro Town.
# 3 Victoria House
Lovely beach-front setting; potential, not always realized, of being one of
the best resorts in Belize; variety of accommodations, some very pricey.
# 4 Belizean Reef Suites
Just at the south end of San Pedro Town, beautiful luxury suites at a fair
price. First-floor units open on the beach.
# 5 Captain Morgan's Retreat
In many ways, this is what visitors to Belize come looking for -- thatched
cabaûas on a stretch of beach; on the north end of Ambergris Caye, next to
The Essene Way.
# 6 Belize Yacht Club
Originally mainly a real estate project, new management is taking these
Mexican-looking condos more towards a suites hotel concept; beautiful
pool.
# 7 Ramon's Village
Well-located just south of San Pedro Town, always popular, nice little
beach and pool, often recommended by travel agents, somewhat expensive
for what you get.
# 8 The Palms Condominiums
Attractive condos, with pool (NOT Royal Palms, which is a timeshare).
# 9 Mayan Princess
Another attractive condotel at the south end of town.
# 10 Journey's End
New ownership seems to have turned around this large resort at the north
end of the island; now it's family oriented, no more lifestyle of the rich
and famous. (We admit we've received a couple of negative reports on this
resort in 1997.)
Other recommendable spots, some in medium to budget price ranges:
Capricorn, Coconuts, El Pescador, Rock's Inn, Paradise Villas, Sunbreeze,
Changes in Latitude B&B, Mata Rocks, Green Parrot, Barrier Reef, Ruby's,
San Pedro Holiday Hotel, Paradise Resort Hotel, Chateau Caribe, Aquarius,
Green Parrot, Emerald Reef
5 Relaxin' Getaways on Remote Cayes
Some of Belize's most appealing resorts are on remote islands and atolls.
Most are oriented to divers or anglers. You'll have to make your own
entertainment, and shopping is non-existent.
# 1 Lighthouse Reef Resort, Northern Two Caye
Glorious isolation on 1200 acres; great diving and fishing around the
atolls; good beaches; even A/C -- three types of accommodations of
varying luxury and privacy.
# 2 Turneffe Island Lodge, Caye Bokel
Fish-camp style lodge on Little Caye Bokel.
# 3 Blue Marlin Lodge, South Water Caye
Simple, pleasant fish/dive lodge with cabaûas.
# 4 St. George's Lodge, St. George's Caye
Dive resort with good food about 8 miles off Belize City.
# 5 Cottage Colony, St. George's Caye
The other resort on this historic caye -- colonial-style cottages.
5 Best Hotel Libraries
For sophisticated travelers, hotel libraries are important. Even some of
the best resorts in Belize have remarkably poor libraries for their guests.
One reason is that books are expensive in Belize. Here are five hotels with
good libraries, most heavy on nature and ecology titles.
# 1 Rum Point Inn, Placencia
Superb book and video library, easily the best hotel library in Belize.
# 2 Hidden Valley Inn, Mountain Pine Ridge
Like the library of a country home in England.
# 3 Colton House, Belize City
Oriented to ecovideos and books.
# 4 Lamanai Outpost Lodge, Lamanai
Good selection of nature and other books.
# 5 Chan Chich, Gallon Jug
Comfortable corner nook with books.
6 Hotels with Old British Honduras Atmosphere
Hurricanes, termites, and time have destroyed most of the British
Honduras colonial architecture. Here are some remaining jewels:
# 1 Four Fort Street Guest House, Belize City
One of the few places in Belize City with old-time atmosphere.
# 2 Barrier Reef Hotel, Ambergris Caye
Wouldn't it be great if all the buildings on Ambergris looked like this?
# 3 Colton House, Belize City
A 1920 West Indies style home, one of the most charming in all of Belize.
# 4 Manatee Lodge, Gales Point
A beautiful setting on the Southern Lagoon.
# 5 Pelican Beach Resort, Dangriga
On the water, with verandahs.
# 6 Cottage Colony, St. George's Caye
Collection of colonial-style cottages.
5 Most Luxe Digs
Most resorts in Belize are comfortable rather than luxurious. Here are five
that are both.
# 1 Villas at Banyan Bay, Ambergris Caye
New condos, with tasteful furnishings, whirlpools, full kitchens, and
more.
# 2 Jaguar Paw, Belmopan Area
Rarity of rarities: air conditioning in the jungle.
# 3 Blancaneaux, Mountain Pine Ridge
The villa units are huge and luxurious (and pricey), with original art and
appealing furnishings.
# 4 Belizean Reef Suites, Ambergris Caye
The suite life at the south end of San Pedro Town.
# 5 Radisson Fort George Hotel, Belize City
The recent renovation helps keep this hotel in a class of its own among
Belize City "international-style" hotels.
10 Great Lodging Values
These are not the least-expensive places in Belize by any means, but all
offer relatively low prices and solid value for what you pay.
(Alphabetical Order)
Ñ Cahal Pech Village, San Ignacio
Great views and a good value in either the cabaûas or hotel rooms.
Ñ Cockscomb Jaguar Sanctuary Cabins, Maya Centre, Stann Creek
New rooms (shared bath and common kitchen) offer true jungle experience.
Ñ Deb & Dave's Last Resort, Placencia
Clean, comfortable, friendly.
Ñ Glover's Atoll "Resort," North East Caye
Very basic, but you can spend a week here for what a night costs at many
Belize resorts, and transportation to the island is included.
Ñ Hok'ol K'in, Corozal Town
While not in the budget category, rooms are new and attractive, and tour
prices are among best in Belize.
Ñ Jiminez Cabaûas, Caye Caulker
One of a number of Corker digs offering clean, safe budget sleep (also
check out Vega's, Marin's, Rainbow, Tree Tops, and Tropical Paradise)
Ñ Ian Anderson's Cave's Branch Camp, Belmopan Area
Range of accommodations and outdoor adventure aplenty.
Ñ Parrot's Nest, Bullet Tree Falls, Cayo
Stilt houses in the trees.
Ñ Ruby's, Ambergris Caye
Squeaky clean basic rooms, some with water views, a bargain on this
expensive island; for budget with a pool, Hideaway is a good choice.
Ñ Seaside Guest House, Belize City
Favorite budget spot, run by the Friends, a Quaker service group.
10 Green Hotels
These are hotels where the owners seem highly interested in maintaining
the environment. This is by no means a comprehensive list, and most
members of the Belize Eco-Tourism Association appear dedicated to
sustainable tourism.
(Alphabetical Order)
Ñ Banana Bank Ranch, Belmopan
Ñ Chaa Creek, Cayo
Ñ Colton House, Belize City
Ñ Dem Dats Doin' Maya Homestay Program, Toledo
Ñ DuPlooy's, Cayo
Ñ Lamanai Outpost Lodge, Lamanai
Ñ Maya Mountain, San Ignacio
Ñ Mountain Equestrian Trails (M.E.T.), Mountain Pine Ridge
Ñ Pelican Beach Resort, Dangriga
Ñ Pook's Hill, Belmopan Area
Belize First Editor's 10 Favorite Places to Stay
These are some of the favorite spots of Belize First Editor Lan Sluder:
# 1 Chan Chich, Gallon Jug
A class act all the way, and a remarkable place to stay.
# 2 Kitty's Place, Placencia
We could stay for weeks in one of the beachfront cabaûas.
# 3 Chaa Creek, Cayo
Run by real professionals, and nearly bug-free to boot.
# 4 Lamanai Outpost Lodge, Lamanai
Anyone opening a lodge in Belize ought to study the design of this place,
built by the late Colin Howells.
# 5 Hidden Valley Inn, Mountain Pine Ridge
A large private estate with remarkable discoveries at the end of every
trail.
# 6 Caribbean Villas, Ambergris Caye
Hands-on management makes the difference.
# 7 Blancaneaux, Mountain Pine Ridge
Italian/Scots/Belize hospitality in the Mountain Pine Ridge.
# 8 Colton House, Belize City
One can only wish all of Belize City were as nice as this.
# 9 Tony's, Corozal Town
We can't explain exactly why we like it, but we like it.
# 10 Victoria House, Ambergris Caye
Would that we could afford to stay in one of the owners' villas here.
Honorable Mention: DuPlooy's, Cayo; Fallen Stones, P.G.; Captain Morgan's,
Ambergris Caye; Jaguar Paw, Belmopan; Jaguar Reef Lodge, Hopkins/Sittee
Point; Turtle Inn, Placencia; Rum Point Inn, Placencia; Green Parrot, Seine
Bight; Hotel Seine Bight, Seine Bight; Nautical Inn, Seine Bight
3 Dependable Car Rental Agencies
These are three Belize City rental agencies which have proved to be
reliable. We've had good luck with some of the other renters at the
international airport, too. Regardless of which car renter you choose,
always check out the car carefully, as the roadability of the specific cars
available can be as important as the reputation of the agency. Be sure the
tires are good, and that there's a usable spare and a jack with all
necessary parts. Ask for the lowest-mileage vehicle available. A Belize
car with 50,000 miles is the equivalent of a car in Canada or the U.S. with
at least 100,000 miles. Confirm that the company will send someone to
service your car if it breaks down.
# 1 Budget
Good selection of late-model Suzuki vehicles; well-run operation with
generally dependable cars and country-wide service
# 2 National
Suzuki and other vehicles, mostly in top shape
# 3 Jabiru
Vehicles may not be as new as at the two "majors" above, but usually they
are still in good shape, with (sometimes) lower prices
10 Can't-Miss Places to Eat
It's not true you can't get a good meal in Belize. While the country has no
five-star restaurants, you can enjoy excellent seafood, and sometimes
nothing tastes better than a plate of rice and beans. This list does not
include resort or jungle lodge restaurants which cater primarily to guests.
Some of these, such as the restaurants at Blancaneaux, Pretty See Ranch,
and Jaguar Paw, are excellent. (If the restaurant attracts many who are
not guests at the hotel, such as the Hotel Seine Bight, it qualifies as a
"stand-alone" restaurant for this list.) In Belize, as elsewhere,
restaurants can change overnight, so always ask locally.
(Alphabetical Order)
Ñ Four Fort Street Guesthouse, Belize City
The atmosphere is as enticing as the food.
Ñ GG Cafe and Patio, Belize City
Creole food and burgers.
Ñ The Grill, Belize City
Steaks, pasta and other dishes; more upscale than most restaurants in
Belize.
Ñ Jade Garden, Ambergris Caye
Chinese, and more, in a quiet and pleasant setting.
Ñ La Margarita, Ambergris Caye
New in '96, specializing in Tex-Mex and giant margaritas.
Ñ Lily's, Ambergris Caye
Fresh and family-style seafood.
Ñ Little Italy, Ambergris Caye
Italian and seafood.
Ñ The Reef, Ambergris Caye
Local food, cheap and cheerful.
Ñ Sandbox, Caye Caulker
Popular spot, with seafood and other dishes.
Ñ Hotel Seine Bight, Seine Bight
Eccentric and interesting.
Other recommendable spots: Barracuda & Jaguar Inn's Pickled Parrot Grill,
Placencia; Bellevue Hotel Caribbean Room, Belize City; Bullfrog Inn
Restaurant, Belmopan; Celi's, Ambergris Caye; Duke's Place, Ambergris
Caye; Elvi's Kitchen, Ambergris Caye; Eva's Restaurant, San Ignacio;
Flamboyant, Placencia; Lagoon, Ambergris Caye; Green Parrot, Maya
Beach; Macy's, Belize City; Serindib, San Ignacio; Tentacles, Placencia;
Tropical Paradise, Caye Caulker
6 Most-Scenic Drives
Belize does not have the drop-head breathless scenery of highlands
Guatemala or Costa Rica, but Belize's small population, uncut forests, and
diverse ecosystems provide a uniquely Belizean brand of beauty. Emory
King's Driver's Guide to Beautiful Belize and the ITMB Traveller's Map will
keep you from getting lost.
# 1 Hummingbird Highway
Hands down, this road from Belmopan to near Dangriga is the most
beautiful drive in Belize, and beyond the first 19 miles near Belmopan, it
is also the best road in Belize. (The remaining 19 miles are due to be
resurfaced "soon.") The beginnings of the Maya Mountains, green and lush,
are interrupted by the occasional citrus farm. You can't see them, but
these limestone hills are laced with vast networks of caves.
# 2 Road to Caracol
The road to Caracol begins with the bone-jarring routes from Georgeville
or San Ignacio into the North Georgia-like scenery of the Mountain Pine
Ridge. But once beyond Augustine/Douglas DeSilva, the real beauty begins.
It is a vast and unpopulated area, close to Guatemala, and the road, though
improved, is still no superhighway. When the butterflies are flying and the
sky is blue, this is a magical, if rough, trip to the ruins of Caracol.
# 3 Road to Sarteneja and Progresso Lagoon
This little-traveled area of northern Belize provides glimpses of beauty to
make up for the unpaved roadway. En route from Orangewalk Town, you'll
enjoy seeing the Progresso Lagoon, prosperous Mennonite farms, and the
isolated villages of Chunox and Sarteneja, on the Bay of Chetumal. On your
return, if past the Progresso Lagoon, you turn right instead of going back
to Orange Walk, you can visit the village of Copper Bank and, in good
weather, the ruins of Cerros.
# 4 Road to Chan Chich
Most people fly to Gallon Jug, but driving is a better way to see some of
the real Belize (advance permission is needed to travel the private parts
of this route). This part of Orange Walk District is a country of Mennonite
and other farms, small rural villages, and wild bush. As you drive through
Programme for Belize and Gallon Jug lands, you'll likely see oscellated
turkeys and other rare wildlife. This is also one of the region's last
remaining mahogany forests. The road to Lamanai, which turns off at San
Felipe Village, is also a great drive.
# 5 Road to Gales Point and Southern Lagoon
The new coastal highway, or "shortcut" from Democracia to Stann Creek,
is mostly an awful road, dusty in the dry season and muddy or flooded
after rains. But the short section of unpaved road, from around Melinda
about 10 miles north of Dangriga, to Gales Point, ending at the Colonial-
style Manatee Lodge, is loaded with simple charm and unexpected beauty.
The charm comes from the small, unspoiled Creole village of Gales Point,
and the beauty from the Southern Lagoon, home to crocodiles, jabiru
storks, and manatee.
# 6 Roads to Maya Villages near PG
While not an area of tremendous scenic beauty, the roads off the Southern
Highway to the Maya villages near San Antonio and beyond are an education
in history and culture. In rainy weather, the roads can become impassable
even for four-wheel drives. Regrettably, some timbering activity by a
large Malaysian company is going on in this area.
5 Must-See Mayan Ruins
Belize has literally hundreds of ruins, many still undiscovered or
unexcavated. Of the dozen or so "major" ones, the wonderful thing about
them is that they are almost totally untouristed. Unlike in the Mexican
Yucatçn or even at Tikal, where hordes of visitors swarm over the ruins,
in Belize you may be alone with the caretaker, or one of only a handful of
visitors, at an ancient Mayan city.
# 1 Caracol
The largest known site in Belize, and larger in area even than Tikal, this
Classic Maya city-state was rediscovered in the 1930s but only since
1985 has excavation been underway. With an improved access road, and
less bureaucratic red tape, it is now easier than ever to visit this awe-
inspiring place. Caracol's highest pyramid is still the tallest man-made
structure in Belize. The drive to Caracol is beautiful and not difficult,
except in wet weather.
# 2 Lamanai
Lamanai was an important Maya community for three millennia, and this
site has buildings dating back to 700 B.C. The setting is beautiful, at the
edge of the New River Lagoon. You can drive here, via a newly improved
all-weather road, though the approach by boat is inspiring.
# 3 Xunantunich
This Late Classic site is small but impressive. Don't miss the view into
Guatemala from El Castillo, a 135-foot tower that is the second-tallest
structure in Belize. A plus is its easy access from the Western Highway --
you cross the Mopan River on a small hand-cranked ferry. A new visitor
center is open.
# 4 Lubaantun
Not by any means the largest, most important, or most impressive site,
Lubaantun has a mysterious appeal. One reason is its setting, near the
remote villages of Toledo with their population of present-day Mayans,
some of whom may shyly offer to sell you crafts or small trinkets at the
Lubaantun site. Another is the famous Crystal Skull, which may or may not
have been discovered here in 1926 by the daughter of archeologist F. A.
Mitchell-Hedges, and which may or may not be authentic. A third is the
style of construction, of carefully hand-cut limestone blocks laid without
mortar. Lubaantun is on an isolated ridge near the village of San Pedro
Columbia off the Southern Highway.
# 5 Chechem Ha Cave
Many caves in Belize contain Mayan relics. This one, on private land in
Cayo District, can be visited on a guided tour. Most who make the effort to
see this come away awed by the pottery which dates to the time of Christ.
One access is via a long drive on the "hydro road" from Benque Viejo.
5 Good Museums and Such
Belize doesn't have much in the way of fancy museums, but here are five
of interest:
# 1 Belize Zoo, Western Highway near Belmopan
Absolutely fantastic place! See jaguars, April the mountain cow, and more,
all in a natural setting.
# 2 Natural History and Blue Morpho Butterfly Centre, Chaa Creek, Cayo
Privately operated center with growing collections of materials and
displays, plus butterfly breeding centre.
# 3 Maya Centre, Cockscomb Preserve
Small but informative displays on Cockscomb Preserve area.
# 4 Maritime Museum, Belize City
Newly opened, devoted to marine and local history.
# 5 Ix Chel Farm/Rainforest Trail, Cayo
Adjoining Chaa Creek, this private project of Rosita Arvigo highlights
rainforest remedies.
Honorable Mention for effort to date: Ambergris Museum
6 Wonderful National Parks and Reserves
Belize is making a terrific effort to preserve its natural land and sea
resources for future generations. Here are six national parks and reserves
which won't disappoint you:
# 1 Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Preserve, Stann Creek District
The world's first jaguar preserve, this lush jungle reserve of more than
100,000 acres is a must-see for anyone interested in natural Belize. New
trails are open to Victoria Peak, one of the highest points in Belize.
# 2 Mountain Pine Ridge Reserve, Cayo District
More than 300 square miles of nearly unpopulated land in Western Belize.
Controlled logging is allowed.
# 3 Rio Bravo Conservation and Management Area, Orange Walk District
More than 150,000 acres of jungle, including mahogany forest, in Orange
Walk District, privately managed by Programme for Belize.
# 4 Half Moon Caye Natural Monument, Lighthouse Reef
Belize's first nature preserve, Half Moon Caye is a beautiful island on
Lighthouse Reef, with 10,000 acres of surrounding reef.
# 5 Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, Crooked Tree
This is bird city in Belize. The sanctuary boundaries include several large
lagoons, including Crooked Tree (which unfortunately has been partly
drained) and Revenge.
# 6 Community Baboon Sanctuary, Bermudian Landing
More than 1,000 black howler monkeys are now safe in the eight villages
making up the sanctuary.
Other highly recommended parks and preserves:
Ñ Bacalar Chico National Park and Marine Reserve, Ambergris Caye
Ñ Blue Hole National Park, Belmopan Area
Ñ Five Blues Lakes National Park, Belmopan Area
Ñ Hol Chan, Ambergris Caye
Great Honeymoon Destinations
Belize is a popular honeymoon spot. With some prior planning, visitors
even get married in Belize. Here, in no particular order, are our
suggestions for great honeymoon destinations in Belize.
For Soft Adventure in the Jungle
Here are four jungle lodges where you can enjoy nature with creature
comforts and privacy:
Ñ Chan Chich Lodge, Orangewalk District. In the middle of the bush, with
cut trails for easy jungle access and good local guides to share their
knowledge with you. Cabaûas are single units for privacy. Very safe, very
good.
Ñ Lamanai Outpost Lodge, Orangewalk District. Beautiful setting on the
New River Lagoon near Lamanai ruins. Take a spotlight nature tour at
night. Thatch cabaûas aren't fancy but well designed and private.
Ñ Chaa Creek near San Ignacio, Cayo. For privacy, choose the new
honeymoon cottage, as most other accommodations are in duplex cabaûas.
Ñ Jaguar Paw, Belmopan Area. Ride the river and explore caves by day,
enjoy good food and air conditioned comfort by night.
For Luxury
For a sybaritic honeymoon, consider one of these options:
Ñ Villa units at Blancaneaux, Mountain Pine Ridge. You'll live like a movie
star at Francis Ford Coppola's place. Swim in the river, visit nearby
waterfalls, tour the ancient city of Caracol.
Ñ Beachfront owners' villas at Victoria House, Ambergris Caye. Luxurious
designer villas directly on the water.
Ñ Condo units at Villas at Banyan Bay, Ambergris Caye. New and nicely
furnished condos with jacuzzis and other modcons.
Budget Honeymoon
Ñ Stay in a tent at a "safari" camp at Chaa Creek near San Ignacio, or at
M.E.T. in the Mountain Pine Ridge
Ñ Honeymoon in a "tree house" at Parrot's Nest near San Ignacio
Ñ Rough it on the reef in a cabin on Tobacco Cay, Ranguana Caye, or other
small caye
Ñ Camp at Cockscomb Preserve -- common kitchens are available to cook
your own meals
Kickback and Relax Honeymoon
For a low key, no-pressure honeymoon, try one of these:
Ñ Beach cabaûa at Kitty's Place, Placencia
Ñ Thatch beach cabaûa at Turtle Inn, Placencia
Ñ Thatch cabaûa at Captain Morgan's Retreat, North Ambergris Caye. You
may be able to use the chapel at The Essene Way next door to get married.
Ñ Private cabaûa at Lighthouse Reef Resort
Get Away from It All
Ñ Charter a sailboat and visit your choice of more than 200 islands in the
Caribbean off the coast of Belize -- the 84-foot catamaran "Rendezvous"
is one that does crewed charters.
Ñ Rent your own private island -- French Louis Caye is one that's available
for around US$150 a day. It has a wooden house, snorkeling right off the
beach, and no mosquitos. (Reserve through Kitty's Place, Placencia.)
10 Delightful Denizens of the Wild
# 1 Jaguar
Panthera onca, often called tiger by Belizeans, is the largest cat in the
Western Hemisphere. Both the spotted jaguar and the black jaguar are the
same species. Although there may be more than 1,000 jaguars in Belize,
youneed extraordinary luck to see one of these incredibly beautiful
nocturnal animals, except at the Belize Zoo, which has both spotted and
black jaguars. Belize has four other species of wild cats.
# 2 Mountain Cow
The tapir, or mountain cow, the national animal of Belize, though large,
eats only veggies and is shy and nonaggressive.
# 3 Jaiburu Stork
This is the largest bird in the New World, which can grow to a height of
five feet with a wingspan of 12 feet. It can be seen at Crooked Tree
Wildlife Sanctuary and the Southern Lagoon.
# 4 Manatee
The West Indian Manatee, a distant relative of the elephant, is a gentle
herbivore. It is an endangered species, but there have been recent reports
of the slaughter of families of manatees in Toledo District by Guatemalan
fishermen. Manatees can be seen in the Southern Lagoon and along the
coast and lagoons near Placencia, Hopkins, Punta Gorda, and elsewhere.
# 5 Black Howler Monkey
Howlers, sometimes called baboons in Belize, are rare, found only in parts
of Belize, Guatemala, and Mexico. Almost wiped out by disease in the
1950s, they are making a comeback in Belize, thanks to efforts at
protection, such as at Community Baboon Sanctuary, and through
reintroduction in Cayo and Stann Creek districts and elsewhere.
# 6 Blue Morpho Butterfly
Belize has thousands of types of butterflies and months, but the Blue
Morpho is perhaps the most beautiful.
# 7 Keel-billed Toucan
This is the national bird of Belize and, like the jaguar, appears on T-shirts
and hotel logos everywhere. You can spot it in the wild in many parts of
the country.
# 8 Iguanas
Several species of iguanas make their home in Belize. An effort is
underway now to promote the raising of green iguanas, locally prized as a
chicken-like dish. The "Jesus Christ Lizard," a basilisk, is so called
because it can literally walk on water.
# 9 Ocellated Turkey
This rare bird, one of more than 500 birds sighted in Belize, can be seen
around Chan Chich Lodge, on Programme for Belize Lands, near Caracol, and
elsewhere.
# 10 Quash
Coatimundis, relatives of the racoon, are cute as the devil. They're smart
and have a keen sense of smell.
10 Wild Things to Watch Out For
As a sub-tropical and tropical country, Belize is rich in life forms,
including some that are not very nice to human beings. Fortunately, most
visitors to Belize aren't bothered by these denizens of the wild, save for
the occasional mozzie or no-see-um bites.
# 1 No-see-ums (sandflies, sandfleas, midge gnats, purrujas)
These buggers are twice as mean as mozzies -- watch out for them near
mangrove swamps and on a windless day on the coast or cayes; Avon Skin-
So-Soft may help some.
# 2 Mozzies
Some mosquitoes in Belize do carry dangerous diseases including malaria
and dengue fever. Many visitors to Belize are surprised, though, that
mosquitoes are not as bad as they feared. The nearly constant winds on the
cayes keeps mozzies at bay, and much of Cayo District escapes the plague
of these bugs. They are worse in the late summer after periods of rain, and
in southern Belize, which gets more rain than any other part of the
country.
# 3 Botfly
This little horror, happily not a problem for most visitors, gets the help of
a mosquito to place its egg under your skin. The larva then grows to the
size of your thumb-- yecch! Lure the "doctor fly" out with a slab of
fatback or bacon placed over the entrance; kill it by smothering it to death
with vaseline or glue; or apply the sap of the bot killer tree, or some say,
a piece of tobacco.
# 4 Yellow-jawed tommygoff (fer-de-lance)
This highly poisonous snake attacks aggressively. It has heat-seeking
fangs and can strike accurately even in the dark. Avoid it, and if by rare
chance you are bitten get medical attention immediately. Belize has about
20 types of poisonous snakes of which "only" nine are deadly.
# 5 "Alligators"
Called thus by many Belizeans, but Belize actually has only crocodiles, the
larger American and the smaller Morelet's. Occasional attacks on humans
are recorded in Belize.
# 6 Scorpions
These are common all over Belize. They are often present in the walls of
buildings (avoid leaving wet towels out) or in thatch roofs. For most
species in Belize, the sting hurts, but not too much worse than the sting
of a wasp, and isn't fatal.
# 7 Warries (White-Lipped Peccary)
Peccaries are related to pigs. White-Lipped Peccaries, now rare in Belize,
travel in large herds. If you hear loud bellowing, screeching and tooth-
clacking (and don't happen to be in Big Daddy's late at night), climb the
nearest tree, as warries can be hazardous to your health.
# 8 Killer bees
The stings of Africanized bees hurt no more than those of ordinary
honeybees, but killer bees are far more aggressive and ill-tempered. They
have killed many cattle and other livestock in Belize, and in Costa Rica at
least 16 human deaths have been attributed to killer bee attacks. Virtually
all the honeybees you see in Belize are now Africanized and are present in
most areas, even Ambergris Caye. If you stumble on a hive, try to get
under a roof (bees usually won't follow you under a shelter) or into water.
# 9 Tarantulas
You may see one of these furry balls of fun on the rainforest floor or even
on a village sidewalk. Their bite can be painful but isn't serious. Some
people keep these as pets.
# 10 Jaws and other sea critters
Belize has all the usual denizens of the deep -- sharks, stingrays,
barracuda, moray eels, fire coral, etc. Most of these are as harmless as
sheep dogs, as least according to the guys at the dive shop.
Honorable Mention:
Ñ Vampire bats
Belize does have vampire bats, whose bite may cause rabies, but unless
you sleep outside a lot without clothes on, don't worry. Belize's many
species of bats do worlds of good, from eating mozzies to pollinating
fruit.
Ñ Rat bats
These ratty looking bats love to make their home in the attics of houses.
Many -- if not most -- homes in Belize at some time will have bats in the
attic.
5 Friendliest Places
Belizeans, by and large, are warm, open, and welcoming to visitors. You
can make friends easily anywhere in Belize.
# 1 Hopkins/Sittee Point
Small and unspoiled Garifuna area with warm, friendly folks
# 2 Corozal Town
Generally safe town with Mexican influence and nice people
# 3 San Ignacio
Relaxed community with a Maya and Mestizo heritage
# 4 Punta Gorda
Population is a mix of Maya (especially in areas outside PG), Garifuna,
Creole, Mestizo -- generally hassle-free except at bars at night
# 5 Belize City
Belize City has a well-deserved reputation for crime and hassle, but it
also has some of the hardest-working, friendliest people in Belize -- too
bad the rascals are what most visitors hear about.
6 Best Belize Guidebooks
# 1 Belize Handbook, by Chicki Mallan, 3rd ed., Moon Publications, 1995
It's beginning to get a little long in the tooth, but this Moon guide remains
the best-organized, most thoughtfully designed, and well-researched
guide to the country.
# 2 Rough Guide to Guatemala and Belize, by Peter Eltringham and Mark
Whatmore, 3rd. ed., Rough Guides/Penguin, 1996
Solid, reliable research and especially good coverage of less-expensive
options mark this guidebook, one in a wonderful series put out by self-
described "English eccentrics." Peter Eltringham first came to Belize with
the Royal Air Force.
# 3 Emory King's Driver's Guide to Beautiful Belize, Tropical Press, 1997
This mile-by-mile guide, by one of Belize's best-known personalities, is a
must for anyone on a do-it-yourself trip to Belize, even if you're not
driving.
# 4 Belize, A Natural Destination, by Richard Mahler and Steele Wotkyns,
3rd ed., John Muir
Excellent on the natural side of Belize; new edition is being researched
now.
# 5 Guide to Belize, by Alex Bradbury, 2nd ed., Bradt, 1996
At present the most up-to-date country guide to Belize. Some inexplicable
omissions but its currency and candid coverage makes it a worthwhile
traveling companion.
# 6 Adventure Guide to Belize, by Harry Pariser, 3rd ed., Hunter
Publishing, 1995
Now outdated in some of its hotel and restaurant coverage, this guide
remains useful for its in-depth and comprehensive reporting. New edition
is being researched now.
Honorable Mention:
New Key to Belize, Stacy Ritz, 2nd ed., Ulysses Press, 1995
Insight Guides Belize, Tony Perrottet, ed., Houghton-Mifflin, 1995
10 Best Belize Web Sites
Possibly no destination in the world -- and certainly no other country the
size of Belize -- has so many informative and interesting Web sites as
Belize. In fact, Belize may soon have more Web home pages than actual
homes ... or tourists. Out of fairness, we didn't include our own Web sites
at http://www.turq.com/belizefirst/ or www.turq.com/equator/.
# 1 Belize On-Line (http://www.belize.com)
Although a commercial site, Belize On-Line is packed with news, facts,
figures, links, and other help. The Belize newsgroup is fairly active. Susan
Garcia and Manolo Romero were early pioneers of the use of the Web to
promote Belize, and the professionalism and experience are evident.
# 1 (tie) Belize by Naturalight (http://www.belizenet.com)
Tony Rath has put together a terrific site, with stunning graphics,
beautiful photos (but what else would you expect from one of the
Caribbean Coast's premier shooters?) and tons of good information. Even
the ads are informative. Live chat area and newsgroup. Also excerpts from
a daily show from Love-FM Radio in Belize. Tony uses a Mac, and it shows.
# 3 You Better Belize It (http://www.belizeit.com)
Belizean-owned site with something of a mish-mash of information and
promotion, but lively and with frequent visits by Belizeans living outside
Belize. Now has the most-active Belize newsgroup.
# 4 Belizean CyberWeb (http://www.belizeanweb.com)
Technically advanced site with all kinds of bells, whistles, java juice, and
frames. For British Honduras buffs, Neil Fraser's collection of old photos
is posted here.
# 5 San Pedro Sun (http://www.ambergriscaye.com/sanpedrosun/)
Like the newspaper, this home page is friendly, chatty, informative, and
upbeat.
# 6 Ambergris Caye (http://www.ambergriscaye.com)
Everything you always wanted to know about San Pedro.
# 7 Xibalba (http://www.xibalba.com/xibalba/belizeca/)
Eclectic site by Shawn Brisbin, with varied and extensive information on
Belize (some of it a bit hard to read due to the backgrounds). Excellent
links section.
# 8Belize Audubon Society (http://www.belizeaudubon.org )
Wonderful new site from Belize's premier conservation group. Another
tremendous design job by the Belize by Naturalight folks.
# 9 The Reporter (http://www.belizenet.com/reporter/reporthp.html)
Tony Rath's approach to putting The Reporter on the Web is a beautifully
simple and intelligent design solution. The Reporter is also on the Belize
Online site.
# 10 Belize Tourist Board (http://www.turq.com/belize.html)
Good "official" overview of what to expect in Belize.
Honorable mention:
Ñ Amandala On-Line (http:belizemall.com/amandala/~)
A Web edition of the weekly newspaper Amandala
Ñ Belize Culture Group (http://137.245.64.17/)
This, along with Ian Cawich's home page, are tied to the Belize Culture
Internet Mailing List, an active mailing list. (To subscribe to this mailing
list, send to bz-culture-request@psg.com the message: subscribe).
Ñ BelizeWeb (http://www.belizeweb.com)
This site is run by Belize Telecommunications, Ltd., Belize's phone
company.
Ñ Lonely Planet - Destination Belize
(http://www.lonelyplanet.com/dest/cam/belize.htm/)
Lonely Planet's well-regarded site has an informative section on Belize.
5 Best Newspapers
# 1 The Reporter
Improved design and an independent stance make this the best weekly in
Belize
# 2 Belize Sun
The new entry by the owners of the San Pedro Sun is just what Belize
tourism needed
# 3 San Pedro Sun
Chatty and cheerful island weekly
# 4 Amandala
Opinionated, independent weekly
# 5 Cayo Trader
Good effort by young publisher
6 Best Places to Live in Belize
Many North Americans and Europeans have a dream of living where the
water is blue, the air is warm, the rum is cheap, and the living is easy.
Belize may, or may not, live up to your expectations in those regards. Many
who do make the leap to Belize end up frustrated, unhappy and broke, so
investigate thoroughly before you decide to move to Belize. Expats in
Belize are now clustered mostly in San Pedro, the Belize City suburbs,
Placencia, and near Corozal Town. Here are our own picks for the best
places to live and buy in Belize.
# 1 Corozal Town/Consejo
Most visitors to Belize either never get to Corozal or pass through quickly
en route somewhere else. But the Corozal Town area and nearby Consejo
offer a lot for those staying awhile -- low prices, friendly people, a
generally low-crime environment, the beautiful blue water of the bay, and
the extra plus of having Mexico next door for cheap shopping.
# 2 Rural Cayo District
Cayo has a lot going for it: wide open spaces, plenty of land, few bugs, and
friendly folks. This might be just the place to buy a few acres and grow
some oranges.
# 3 Hopkins/Sittee Point
This is what Placencia was 20 years ago, almost as pretty and even
friendlier. If you want a place on the beach, prices are still relatively
affordable here, but as anywhere in Belize, do your "due diligence" before
putting out cash.
# 4 Ambergris Caye
This is the most-popular, but most-expensive, place for expats to live in
Belize. For some, it's too touristy, but others love the fact that there are
other North Americans in residence.
# 5 Southern Toledo District
If you can stand the rain and the mosquitos, the far south of Belize has
some of the lowest land prices and nicest people in the country. When the
paving of the Southern Highway is finally completed, it will open this area
up to a new blush of tourism and development.
# 6 Rural Orangewalk District
Orangewalk Town isn't such a wonderful place, but out in the district,
around August Pine Ridge or beside a lagoon, you may find your little piece
of isolated paradise.
Honorable Mention:
Sarteneja: If you don't mind being near the ends of the earth, this is a
beautiful area
Caye Caulker: Corker's fans are legion